I left for Jordan especially longing for Petra but the real surprise was there Dana Nature Reserve. This, like other nature reserves in the country, is part of a conscious and sustainable tourism program, which respects nature and actively involves local populations.
La Dana Reserve it is found at north of Petra, in the Governorate of Tafila. It is a very large area, which takes its name from the village of Dana, an agglomeration of houses of Ottoman origin which after a period of neglect has been recovered in its traditional architecture. In Dana there is the visitor center, with an explanation of the local flora and fauna, the formation of the extraordinary landscapes and where you can decide which excursion to do. The excursions vary like the landscape, ranging from the mountain range of the Rift Valley to the desert landscapes of the Wadi Araba.
Il trekking that I chose, together with a group of people, was that of Wadi Ghwayr. It is a challenging route in a canyon carved by a river, the flow of which varies according to the seasons. The route can only be done with guides, who are people of the Bedouin community of the area specially trained and who speak English correctly. Until the day before it is not possible to be sure of departure because the area is subject to "flash floods“, Sudden floods of rain, even falling very far away, which fills the river bed and can be fatal between the narrow walls of the canyon.
The route is a fascinating experience of knowledge of the environment, where the guide explains everything, from the shape of the rocks (mainly sandstone, in many shades of color), to the nature of the plants and the use that the Bedouin tribes have made of them since time immemorial . Some anecdotes border on magic but are nevertheless extremely interesting. They are fresh animal footprints (jackals, mules) e you always walk in the water, which is cool but not as cold as our mountain streams. The canyon is narrow in some places, the 40 meter high walls leave little room for light; in other points it opens and along the walls many palms are strongly attached.
Spring is the best season because the temperature is not too high, once you leave the canyon the landscape becomes barren and stony, it is the time when you see more plants - even flowering ones, oleanders, white gorse, jojoba tree. After the long day you will find welcome at Feynan Ecolodge (www.feynan.com) and here the surprises start again. There are various ecolodges in the Jordanian nature reserves, eco-sustainable accommodation facilities, with solar panels, saving light and above all staff and local food.
The Feynan is located in a huge stony desert space, surrounded by mountains where the only neighbors are the Bedouins, who live in isolated tents. The stone building has a pleasant internal courtyard, common areas with wifi and rooms furnished with few frills. Electric light is available only in the service areas, otherwise candles are used, both in the rooms and at the table and in the common living room. The dinner - vegetarian - and breakfast is made only of delicious local products, which are provided by the Bedouins who have the possibility to support themselves; women who make and sell bread, dairy and vegetables, as well as candles to light up the darkness. The water is kept cool in terracotta jars, in the evening after dinner you can sit in the living room chatting with the guests, in a student house atmosphere, or you can go up to the flat roof of the building where the unique spectacle is the sky stuffed with stars.
Half board at the Feynan costs 60 JD each about; at the Ecolodge you can also book excursions with local guides and transfers with Bedouins equipped with 4 × 4 to Dana Village or the place where you left your car.
Speaking of local guides: they are prepared people and eager to let tourists know their culture, they are open to exchange and mutual knowledge and if you get in tune with them they will also escape the invitation to the Bedouin tent, where they really live - not for tourists - for a hot, sweet and fragrant mint tea.
