The Sardinian site of Su Nuraxi, in Sardinia, awaits you with its suggestive landscape. Ready to let yourself be conquered by the panorama of the nuraghi?
Among the many Sardinian sites that today are secured and worthy of a visit, I would recommend starting from Su Nuraxi, in Barumini, declared a World Heritage Site.
The history of the nuraghe
There are about 7000 stone towers that can be seen scattered around the island, some have resisted the time with less tenacity and today go almost unnoticed, seeming, in the eyes of passersby, a pile of stones. Some others have kept their shape in a legible way and to all effects seems to be a construction created to resist and protect something extremely precious.
In Sardinia in the Bronze Age, the most precious commodity was undoubtedly water and the inhabitants of the region were sure of it, who built the aforementioned structures here between 1800 and 500 BC to defend wells and springs.
Defense was not the only purpose of the nuraghe. Their strategic position, the agglomerated buildings, the large stones, the cool spaces that were obtained inside the false-domed rooms were elements that allow us to consider the possibility that the life of the community was lived and administered here.
We have not received any written evidence of the period, an element that has led some scholars to suppose that the nuragics did not know a form of writing, but there are, on the other hand, considerable material sources.
The nuragic village of Su Nuraxi
The heart of the structure is the central tower dating back to about 3500 years ago, around which secondary structures were built and then inhabited during the Roman era. It was originally made up of 3 levels of false domes for a total height of about 19m.
Discovered by Giovanni Lilliu in 1949, the site is now one of the most visited in the region, accessible only with the accompaniment of an expert guide.
How to reach the Su Nuraxi site
Visitors by car can reach the site by following the signs for Barumini, a quiet and very intimate village, divided into two main lives. From the arrival in the village you will find indications for Su Nuraxi, and you will see the silhouette of the stones and the nuraghe rise in the background.
For those arriving by bus, the most convenient way is from Cagliari (1h45, 6 €)
Ticket and guided tour
Access to the site is possible from 9.00 am to “sunset” (variable indication which therefore requires a telephone confirmation or a specific check on the website www.fondazionebarumini.it for the day you wish to visit the area).
The ticket (including guided tour) costs € 10, full price for adults, € 8 from 13 to 17 years, € 6,50, reduced for ages between 7 and 12 years and is cumulative: it includes the access to two nearby and complementary structures: the museum dedicated to the discovering archaeologist Giovanni Lilliu e Zapata house, a sixteenth-century Spanish residence built on the foundations of an ancient nuraghe, now incorporated into a skilful museum layout that houses an extensive collection of finds.
Where stay
The landscape around the site is absolutely suggestive: luxuriant in spring, it can become scorched and hot in summer. That's why a stop at the cafe opposite the ticket office on the opposite side of the road is practically a must.
A little further on, further north, you will find a real oasis in the desert, the Su Nuraxi Hotel. Upon arrival you will feel like you are in a Spanish colonial house, with a large vegetable garden and porch on the front and most likely you will be promptly greeted by the owner of the structure, a very kind lady, a teacher by profession, who desperately, but with a smile, seeks to keep the garden always wet, parched by the poor climate.
The rooms offered by this accommodation are rustic and delightful, equipped with private bathroom, TV and air conditioning.
Anyone wishing to end the day on a romantic note will have the opportunity to dine outdoors, with delicious dishes at km 0 and the view of the illuminated nuragic site a short distance from the garden.
