THEisland of Capraia, in the Tuscan Archipelago, is equidistant from the Italian coast and Corsica. To reach it you leave from Livorno with a Toremar ferry which takes three hours and runs only once a day. This and other factors mean that this land, which until 1986 was the site of an agricultural penal colony, was happily isolated from mass tourism.
When you arrive by ship, the port of Capraia appears quiet and charming, with the numerous sailing boats, the houses along the pier, the restaurants, a few shops, the flowering bougainvillea plants. But Capraia is a rugged island, with a mountainous conformation with few drops into the sea, no sandy beach. The island, as part of the Park of the Tuscan Archipelago He did ecological choices, which blend well with its nature: the island is inhabited for a small part. For this reason, taking the car to Capraia is absolutely useless: from the port to the town there is a road 800 meters long, the only asphalt strip on the whole island. A scheduled bus travels this road countless times throughout the day and evening, while the locals travel on silent and non-polluting electric bikes and scooters.
The houses in the town have been recovered and restored, painted in bright colors, enlivened by flowers and climbing plants and the whole is very pleasant. The town, in a dominant position on the port, is surmounted by Fort San Giorgio, which the Genoese erected to defend the island in the sixteenth century. A well-preserved circular watchtower is also a symbol of the town.
From the town square, where the parish church also stands, the paths unravel, numerous on the island, which in fact is very frequented both in spring and in autumn by those who love the trekking.
The paths run through the whole uninhabited part of Capraia and allow even demanding full-day walks reaching the most distant points such as the tip of the Trattoio, in the west coast, or the tip of the Zenobito, extreme southern limit of Capraia. From this point you have a breathtaking view of Cala Rossa, a sanguine rock wall that detaches from the light color of the rocky wall next to it due to a curious geological phenomenon. To do trekking to Capraia it means walking in the green - but without trees to provide shade - for kilometers, in absolute solitude, with the sky furrowed by the flight of seagulls. Due to the lack of shade, trekking is not recommended in the hottest months of the year, which will instead be dedicated to the sea of nature reserve which is crystal clear, full of fish and a diver's paradise.
As I said, however, in Capraia there are no comfortable beaches, the island is rocky. The easiest beach to reach is the one immediately behind the embankment of the port, it is called Frate beach and was made artificially with brought pebbles. Another beach or rather a platform equipped with umbrellas and sunbeds is that of the Grotta, which can be reached from the Tower with a downhill path. The rental of an umbrella and two sunbeds costs € 15 per day, but there are also rocks and a small square free, you just need to equip yourself with a mattress to avoid staying on the stones. The sea is very clear and limpid. Also from the village you can go down a path a Cala San Francesco.
All the other abseils, which are free and therefore low cost, must be conquered on foot. 50 minutes to Cala di Portovecchio, not far from the port as the crow flies; 30 minutes to Cala dello Zurletto; 90 minutes to Cala del Ceppo. It is good to equip yourself with water, walking shoes, hat. The paths are not difficult, but stony and high places so you always need to go down - and then go up again, but it is absolutely worth it.
However, if you do not want to walk or have little time or you still want to enjoy only the sea - spectacular - of this island there is the possibility on a boat. On the port there are a couple of agencies that offer tours of the island to see the caves, the most hidden coves, swim in the clearest spots. Or there is a taxi service that takes you to a cove and then picks you up at the agreed time.
