Always a land of passage, a place of transit for traders, travelers and pilgrims, the Lunigiana is the ideal of "Middle Earth", Divided between the sea and the Apennines, between Liguria and Tuscany. It is complex, varied, it is not always easy to understand its character on the fly, because it is the result of the fusion of different cultures, of ancient stories and legends that have crossed Europe for centuries. Lunigiana hides, under its severe and solitary face, an infinite patrimony of art and nature, which makes it one of the most interesting, although less explored territories of the Tuscany region.
The stretch of the Via Francigena which goes from the Cisa Pass to Pontremoli is about 20 km long, with a walking time of 5 hours, following the paths that lead to the discovery of the beech and chestnut woods, of small and tiny stone villages, lost among the valleys of the Magra and among the steep rocks of the steep Apennine ridges. Despite the Magra Valley both a crossroads of railway lines and roads, it is not difficult to find your own dimension in the middle of nature, far from any kind of chaos. One of the most evocative villages is Groppodalosio, unknown to most people, but made extremely fascinating by the marvelous medieval stone bridge, entirely surrounded by thick and wild vegetation.
Continuing on the Via Francigena, which you remember is always well marked with the recognizable white and red bands accompanied by signs, you pass Arzengio to get to Pontremoli. The town lies on the banks of the Verde torrent, is one of the main centers of Lunigiana and still preserves along its characteristic villages, marvelous medieval churches, historic stone houses, shops, cafes and typical taverns. Particularly interesting is the Piagnaro Castle, which preserves inside the Museum of the Stele Statues, stone monuments known throughout Europe.
An obligatory stop is the Osteria della Bietola (via della Bietola, 4), with its rough stone walls, wooden tables, the authentic atmosphere of a village trattoria and the typical Lunigiani dishes, including testaroli with pesto, accompanied by excellent cold cuts and wines. A truly welcoming tavern, for a well-deserved break after the long walk from Cisa to Pontremoli.
