An unusual itinerary, an unexpected Milan between street art, organic markets and lots of greenery, here is the Milan that we like to tell you about.
Milan it is a city to live. One tells you that in Lombardy she hadn't planned to settle there. But that's how it went. And so instead of complaining about the gray sky and the incessant rain, I learned to love Milan with its strengths and its, not a few, defects.
The main feature that strikes those who begin to know it is that, after a few days, you orient yourself and you discover that some points of the city, which would require two changes of metro, can be reached by walking. Sometimes a simple one walk leads to discover some corners to remain open-mouthed.
Of course, two great allies are needed to do this: some time and a nice sunny day.
You will also soon realize that it is difficult to get lost and that some inhabitants are willing to give you suggestions. Therefore the myth of the Milanese is debunked who only knows how to run and doesn't care about anything else; there are some characters like that, there are many, but they are not the only ones. Just to testify that the ancient sayings still contain the truth, in fact it is said "Milan with coeur in hand".
And it is equally true that Milan is not just Madonnina, shopping and turnover.
There is a part of the city where ancient and modern come together and where you can breathe the true soul away from stereotypes.
So let's take 4 steps from Porta Genova to the Columns of San Lorenzo.
Porta Genova is one of the most important hubs in Milan: here there is one of the stations of the green line and here many tram lines arrive as well as being an obligatory passage to go to the canals or via Tortona.
Then, with your back to the station, continue to the left and go up the "green bridge" or "bridge of the astists". This pedestrian walkway that leads precisely to Tortona passes over the railroad tracks and it does not have a precise name: green because it is the color of the iron structure and of the artists because it is covered with poems, writings, stickers, paintings by emerging or openly alternative artists.
This is one of the greatest expressions of Milanese free art, and the final result, which makes it attractive in the eyes of some inhabitants and many tourists, is a caledoscope of images, words, graffiti and colors.
Our road, however, resumes from the square so go down the walkway and take via Vigevano.
If you had passed this way a few years ago you would have found an almost suburban street, with a quiet air, few shops and small balconies with flower pots.
Now it's a mix of walls full of writings, trendy clubs and vintage boutiques. And if you find an open door, look out and you will discover small gardens, beautiful and well-kept, which seems impossible to find in the heart of Milan.
At the end of Via Vigevano right inside one of these doors, in a wall decorated with blue and red mosaics, you will find theHelichrysum. It was born in the late 90s as a social center and then became squat house. It now houses one organic shop and self-managed among the most sought after in the city.
The volunteers have selected products at km0 or of Italian biological excellence and try to see them at popular prices. Tomato puree, all kinds of flour, flax seeds, jam, jars of dried aromatic herbs, bread and cheeses to order are some of the goods that you can find available. It will be really difficult to go out without even a small purchase.
In front of the Helichrysum, one of the views of Milan for Expo.
After years of neglect and carelessness, the works of the company are finally almost finished Dock. The ancient port, its banks and the area around Piazza XXIV Maggio have been redeveloped and returned to the city and the Milanese.
So let yourself be carried away by the sun of this spring, by the reflections of the water, by elderly couples walking (on the boulevard of memories) or by young people who wonder if this is their Milan or if they are elsewhere.
Continue along from Darsena and take a peek at the courses of the Navigli (famous for the aperitifs, the painters' closets and the Vicolo dei Lavandai) up to Piazza XXIV Maggio, go beyond it. If you like markets, visit the new headquarters of the local market; there are flower stalls, well-stocked butchers and ethnic emporiums.
The idea of ​​some traders is to make the market not only a place to shop, but also a space to meet and have a chat, over a good glass of wine accompanied by local street food such as fried cervellina or mondeghili, classic Milanese meatballs.
After your tour of the market take Corso di Porta Ticinese, the street of the city.
This way has two souls, the alternative and the mundane one.
Alternative because full of murals, graffiti, posters, writings that praise social reflection and the proletarian revolution: from the quotes of De Andrè, to the images of Falcone and Borsellino up to Flaiano or Jacovitti.
Mondaiola because it is full of designer shops or sought-after brands such as Vans, Levi's or Acne. If you are a streetwear lover this is the right place for you: in fact, fashionable shops are intertwined with culture, irony and social commitment.
Also look for the surrounding wall of the Basilica of San Lorenzo where the “Milano Hi-story” is located: a mural that traces two millennia of history. In fact, there are portraits of the famous faces of Sant'Ambrogio, Manzoni, Leonardo or Verdi and many other famous Milanese.
A little further on, from Corsican June, the wall of dolls, another important wall of our walk. A wall with dolls and female images hanging in memory of all the violence against women. It is a strong and touching glance, but in the city of fashion and beauty the Municipality and many brands have strongly wanted this symbol of respect and memory.
At this point, pass the arches that divide in half Corso di Porta Ticinese and instead you will find yourself in one of the most popular places in the city: the columns of San Lorenzo.
There are 16 columns with Corinthian capitals that date back to the XNUMXth century, but now they are the symbol of nightlife. Here from the late afternoon young people meet ready to party together and throw themselves into Milan to drink.
Now it is not up to you to choose the place to have an aperitif and rest after this tour in a Milan that is certainly true and not always touristy.
