Do you want a trip that makes you feel like you are inside a XNUMXth century fresco? Here is the post for you: trip to Montemassi, in Maremma.
In the undulating countryside south of Siena - now the province of Grosseto - on a solitary hill, stands the village of Montemassi. In this area the hills are the masters and are mostly covered by the orderly rows of olive trees.
Montemassi is located in the Municipality of Roccastrada, which boasts the title of city of oil. Indeed here the production of extra virgin olive oil it is a reason for feverish activity from October to the end of November.
The towns, in their oldest nuclei, are all in a dominant position on top of a hill: this is the case of Roccastrada and the nearby Montemassi, Roccatederighi and Sassofortino. The reason is obvious: in this area of ​​Maremma the dangers all came from the plain, including malaria.
Montemassi, a small village protected by the walls
Montemassi is a very small village, which gathers around the fortress and is still partially protected by the walls. What particularly struck me, coming here, in addition to the beauty of the area, was enter the fresco.
Yes, you got it right. If you have a school textbook of art history look for the chapter “Sienese painting of the fourteenth century” and you will surely see the fresco Guidoriccio da Fogliano at the siege of Montemassi. The fresco, attributed to Simone Martini is in the world map room of the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena and it is this here:
Well, the fortress of Montemassi is the fortified nucleus on the left, towards which the proud points Guidoriccio on the horse and is the subject of this post: it has changed little since the year 1330, date reported by the fresco itself.
The defensive building belonged to the Aldobrandeschi family and then to the Pannocchieschi family, but the Republic of Siena attacked it twice; the second time the siege was carried out by Guidoriccio. The Rocca area preserves large portions of the Castle and the tower. The whole area can be visited freely - there is no entrance fee.
How to get to Montemassi
To get there it is necessary to leave the car at the foot of the fortress and walk the steep road that leads to the entrance to the historic area. The position of these rubble is obviously enviable, from up there you can admire the landscape at 360 degrees and on clear days you can see the neighbor's sea Gulf of Follonica. Throughout this vast area on the top of the hill you can see the remains of two prominent buildings: those of Ruined mansion, but whose large windows and doors are still recognizable. In front of this stands a tower, almost intact, which has on the ground floor a hall with cross vaults.
Being up there is like doing a travel back in time: no noise, only the flight of birds.
The visit of the area can continue by descending into the village that stands at the foot of the castle: a place out of the tourist flow, without souvenir shops or cafes that wink at the visitor. To continue the immersion in this "ancient" landscape you can go as far as the other two hill settlements, Roccatederighi, of medieval origin, e Sassofortino: also in this case, peaceful, intact villages, where time has stopped and which constitute, for example, a pleasant interlude from a beach holiday (the Maremma beaches of Castiglion della Pescaia o Marina di Grosseto o Follonica are 40 minutes away by car).
Last but not least! In this area you can eat very well, with game specialties - first of all the boar - or the classic tortelli with ricotta and herbs, sausages and pecorino: any trattoria will not disappoint.
When from the top of one of these hills you descend into the plain, feel a little like the proud Guidoriccio in the fresco!
