In a hit and run in Trentino, I found myself by chance traveling the South Tyrolean Wine Route, which crosses expanses of vineyards in the Adige valley, just south of Bolzano. The route is well marked by explanatory signs and passes through tiny villages that are irresistible because of their authenticity.
When I think of a mountain village, I think of a church with a sharp roof, narrow and winding streets, a bar that becomes the meeting point for the population and a beautiful view of the valley below: I have just described Tramin / Termeno, the heart of the eno-via. Here the Gewurtztraminer, the fine white wine, the pride of Alto Adige, to which the Local Museum is dedicated, open from Easter to October. Here the history of the area is told through agricultural work tools, tools used in viticulture, local costumes and masks of the traditional pagan Carnival.
The fantastic one is from 2010 cellar built by architect Werner Tscholl, which has become a hallmark of Tramin thanks to the very particular shape of the building, which wants to recreate a vine. There are so many appointments to visit it or to participate in tastings or parties, but they usually start with the summer, from May onwards: the Weinstrasse website is always updated.
I was staying at Ora / Auer, which, however, I do not recommend for lovers of mountain tradition: it is a quiet village and well connected with the bicycle path of the Adige river. The main street is not very characteristic and the buildings are quite modern. We left by car from here to reach Tramin and then Cortaccia / Kurtatsch, home to the famous Schwarz Adler restaurant, a historic winery that combines the new and the traditional.
The recent restoration of the building has made it possible to recover the historical parts and add modern touches, making the environment special and elegant. Even the menu maintains this spirit: fish and meat dishes, especially grilled, start from the local cuisine but are influenced by the creativity of the chef. We were unable to eat there because it was all full: in addition to fame, it is Schwarz Adler it also enjoys the fact of being one of the few taverns open in the whole area in the low season. When it is difficult to find an open place for dinner, such as in this period, in fact it is advisable to book.
Our tour ended at Egna / Neumarkt, a delightful medieval village, where you can stroll under arcades vaulted through the historic center. In addition to the imposing Gothic church of San Niccolò, the village offers tourists various options for dining and entertainment: among tiny bars and trendy wine bars, there is also a cinema-theater with a rich calendar and also suitable for the most refined preferences.
In the main square, also a Information Center, where to collect material for excursions to do in the surroundings. The possibilities are really many: nearby there are ski areas for winter sports lovers, the cycle path is vast and suitable for non-professionals, there is no shortage of food and wine events and testimonies of the past are scattered among the mountains and the nearby towns of Trento and Bolzano.
