Mantua pumpkin tortelli, the typical dish of the Lombard city and where to taste it in the city. Two restaurants and a tip for eating well and spending little in Mantua, after visiting the main attractions of the city on foot.
From an adopted Milanese but pelmet of birth, today I try to suggest you three authentic, true, genuine places to find what everyone is looking for when coming to MantovaI pumpkin tortelli! The real ones though.
In fact, every self-respecting Mantua has a grandmother who prepares them for him with rolling pin and pumpkin from the garden, and it always ends "ah how my grandmother makes them!", so that you will find few of my fellow citizens who will recommend a restaurant in the center where you can eat the best. Even on how to dress them in the city there are feuds: there is the family of Burro & Salvia and the cuo contender Salsiccia (from Mantua) & Pomodoro. On this I leave the choice to you, in the meantime I try.
During a trip to Mantua, after admiring the beauty of the city of Mantua on foot far and wide, having seen Piazza delle Erbe, Palazzo Te but also the Castle of San Giorgio, you will have come a certain languishing. If your goal then is to see the best of Mantua in one day, do not waste time finding typical trattorias, start with the program already made and book in one of these typical trattorias, I have selected two for you (plus one with reserve!).
1. Trattoria due cavallini
A little out of the way from the center, near the church of di Santa Maria del Gradaro which I recommend you to see maybe for a stroll after lunch, is one of the most popular places in the city, for generations now. Furnished as in the past, it is a real family-run tavern, and they cook traditional dishes just like at home, including the infamous tortelli. Their real ace in the hole, however, are the macaroni with stew. In short, come back a second time if the first was not enough for you (and it is likely that it will happen!).
2. Osteria dell'Oca
Close enough to the lakeside Gonzaga, also this is a true trattoria of the past. Few tables, old utensils on the walls and a few plates but the right ones. Obviously tested ii pumpkin tortelli, but also some good second courses of meat. Osteria dell'Oca has excellent reviews on several online booking sites. If you really want to convince yourself, see the menu on official site of the Osteria dell'Oca.
3. Popular festivals
My third suggestion leaves you two choices: the Mantuan people, even if apparently reserved and closed, are "genuine" people, as they like to define themselves, so as soon as the ice is broken they are super hospitable. Get invited to some village festival or even at grandma's house to give you the original recipe and then try your hand! Because like those of the grandmother, according to every self-respecting Mantuan worthy of the name, nobody does them.
And if you have some Mantuan friends, try to have them prepare them at home, all the better, you will have the opportunity to see how they are really prepared, far from restaurants and trattorias and to live this experience in a Mantuan house.
Grandma's pumpkin tortelli recipe
For the pastry, 3 eggs, 300 grams of flour.
For the filling: 1 and ½ kg of Mantuan pumpkin, 150 g of amaretti, 70 g of Mantuan apple mustard, 1 pound of parmesan cheese, nutmeg, grated rind of half a lemon.
For the dressing, grated Parmesan cheese to taste, butter and sage. Now, enjoy your meal!
